Vertical strawberry planters in April. |
We grew strawberries at two of our sites
this summer at Sole Food. At Hastings, we have a half-acre site in the parking
lot of the Astoria hotel. This is the original site and therefore has a really
efficient use of space. When they could no longer go out – they went up! Our
strawberries are planted in vertical PVC tubes. The tubes have 2 inch holes
drilled into the sides about 12 inches apart in staggered rows. To install
them, we stand up the tube and attach it to the side of the wooden raised beds.
We then fill with soil from the top of the tube, tamping to make sure it’s good
and full. We set up a drip irrigation line running along the top of each tube. We also placed a pie plate below each
tube so that there is some wicking action happening below. These vertical tubes
run along side the perimeter of the farm and our main walkway – they go
wherever they can fit!
At our pacific site the strawberries are
planted in staggered rows, filling up one whole section with these two-year
plants. Strawberries will continue to produce after two years, but their
production will often slow way down which means most farmers replace them after
two years. Keeping them together in one section just makes crop planning
easier. This section also got drip irrigation.
Planting:
Runners:
The runners of the strawberry plant are the
plant’s way of reproducing. The runner, or stolon, is a long, leafless branch
that grows horizontally out of the plant in search of new space, soil, water
and light. If left alone, the runner will develop a node that will root itself
and form a new strawberry plant. Lissa told me the runner acts like a placenta
– feeding the new plant until it is able to live fully on its own. At that
point the runner will die off and the plants will no longer be connected. So-
if you want new plants in your strawberry patch, let your runners go!
Staple marking a runner we want to keep. |
Runners do function like suckers though-
when they are putting energy into their reproductive efforts they are not
putting that energy into their fruit production. So if your goal is to harvest
lots of good strawberries, you want to remove those runners to refocus that
energy. I would pull off the runners by hand. Some folks on the farm preferred
to use a harvest knife – sometimes this helps if the runners get really big. We
would go through and pull off the runners at least once a week. When we were
harvesting, we would also bring a small tote/bucket for compost and pull out
any bad fruit or runners while harvesting and then the job is always being
done.
There were some plants that didn’t take at
the start of the season (or were pulled out by the crows…) and so we had some
empty spots in our rows. To fill in these spots, we would use a soil staple to
mark out a runner that we wanted to leave so that it wouldn’t get picked off by
a farmer and the runner would then become a new plant in that empty hole.
Harvesting:
You want to pick your strawberries when
they are fully all the way around deep red – no white tips or almost red spots.
We could always notice a difference in flavour between almost red and red. Make
sure that you keep some of the stem and all of the hull still on the fruit
(also known as the peduncle and calyx – such good names!) They look better and
keep better that way. I used my fingers to pinch off the stem and harvest, some
choose to use a knife. We would not sell anything that had any soft spots or
rain damage, but would harvest those to save for staff to eat.
With the strawberries in rows we would just
harvest right into the flats. For the strawberries in the vertical tubes we
would use a fashionable yogurt tub necklace so that you could reach up above
you and harvest with both hands without having to hold on to a flat. We never
washed strawberries as they keep much longer that way.
Strawberries are amazing to have at
markets! We would always offer samples – a sure fire way to get folks coming
back for more.
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